How to: Emulsified Scrub Basics


Emulsified scrubs are pretty beginner-friendly to make, fun to personalize, and wonderful to use.

Today we're going to look at how to compose an emulsified scrub that you can tweak and tailor to your hearts content.

The Secret is In the Name: Emulsify!

The 'secret' to an emulsified scrub is the emulsifier. (Not really so secret, come to think of it). The job of an emulsifier is to allow oil and water to mix.

Simple enough.

But.

An emulsified scrub is made without the addition of water.

So, why add an emulsifier?

When you add emulsifier to an otherwise water-free formula, it doesn't start doing its emulsifying thing until water is introduced.

In short, the product isn't fully activated until it is used.

And when water is introduced, the emulsifier magically morphs the scrubby mixture into a lotion-like solution that rinses away without leaving a greasy film on either your skin or your shower floor.

Yet your skin is left feeling soft, supple, and smooth as silk.

Cool, huh?

Are you ready to make an emulsified scrub?


LisaLise's Basic Emulsified Scrub Formula

Soft-ish butter: 5%
Hard-ish butter: 4 %

Oils: 45%

Emulsifier: 5%
Co-emulsifier: 5%

Preservative: 1%
Essential Oils: 1%

Exfoliating grains: 34%



Butter Notes

Soft-ish butters are butters with a low melting point such as shea. Both refined and unrefined can be used.

Hard-ish butters have a higher melting point such as cocoa or kokum butter.

There are also in-betweenie butters such as mango, which can as such be used in either category.

Try combinations of butters you personally like, and have fun with it.


Oil Notes

You don't need pricey oils in a scrub as they are rinsed off immediately, but do feel free to use any oil or combination of oils you like.

I have had lovely results using combinations of oils such as castor, sweet almond, apricot kernel, olive, and more.

Tip: Try using your own infused oils to add a bit of personalized ingredients magic. For example, the scrub pictured above contains a handcrafted coffee-infused sweet almond oil with brown sugar as the exfoliant. It smelled absolutely delicious and was a hit with my client.



Emulsifier Notes

Feel free to experiment a bit to find the ideal combination for your personal taste.

For emulsifiers, consider conditioning emulsifiers (often recommended for use in hair conditioners) such as BTMS, or try an emulsifying wax. These are sold under numerous names and are often composed of a combination of ingredients. One example is 'olive emulsifier' which is a combination of cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate.

A co-emulsifier helps stabilize and thicken. Cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or (soy) lecithin are possible choices.


Preservative Notes

You can choose to leave preservative out but will then need to keep the container completely free of moisture (read: dipping wet fingers into the jar is a no-no).

As I am a 'dip wet fingers into the jar' kind of person when using a scrub in the shower, I add a broad spectrum preservative.


Exfoliating Grain Notes

This can be finely ground exfoliating grains such as walnut or almond shells (be sure to use grains suitable for body scrub), or if you prefer something that dissolves completely, go for any kind of sugar or fine salt.

I've had great results with brown sugar, raw sugar, normal castor sugar, fine Himalayan salt, and regular fine salt.

You can mix and match them up to your hearts content.

Tip: Take care not to use salt that is too rough or has sharp edges of any kind. The whole idea is to exfoliate – not scratch – the skin. Fine salt gives a lovely scrubbing action without scratching.



Method For Making Emulsified Scrub

  1. Melt emulsifiers and butters slowly over low heat
  2. Add oils
  3. Remove from heat
  4. Stir and let cool until trace
  5. Add preservative 
  6. Whip the mixture until you have the desired lightness and fluffiness. This shouldn't take more than 5 minutes. If you start whipping a titch too soon, you may need to alternate between whipping and chilling the mixture. If that is the case, then this step can take up to 15 minutes.
  7. Add exfoliating grains 
  8. Add fragrance / essential oils
  9. Whip a final time to distribute everything evenly
  10. Transfer to final containers (I find using a piping bag to fill containers quite efficient)



Do Tell

You've probably made a million fabulous emulsified scrubs already and are therefore more than welcome to share tips and inspirational ideas in a comment below.

Comments

Ilhem said…
That's so cool! I've made scrubs using a sucrose laurate based emulsifier but it's a gel texture. I can't wait to try with sorbitan olivate!
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Ilhem - wonderful! Feel free to come back and let me know how it goes!
Anonymous said…
Hi, do you think jojoba beads suitable for this recipe? Sorry I don't have google account. My name is Pie.
MAY said…
Hello, can I also use Stearic acid as a co emulsifier?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hello Pie - I don’t see why you shouldn’t be able to use jojoba beads but then you are thinking of a scrub for face, right?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi May - I’ve never troed this but in theory, you could. Give it a go and see what you think :)
Lu M said…
Hi Lise, when adding sugar or salt, it will last without dissolving in the cream?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Lu - There is no moisture or water in this formula, so the sugar and salt will remain intact until it is used. ;)
Anonymous said…
HI it's Pie again. Thank you for answering me. Did you mean Jojoba beads only suitable for face?
Anonymous said…
Hi, what does percentage means? Are you preparing in 100gram? - FN
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Pie - Jojoba beads can be used for face and body but they might be a bit too ‘soft’ for body use. Percentage can be converted to grams easily if you make 100 grams of product. Percentage is used so you know exactly how much of each ingredient is used in the total batch. I hope this helps.
Fina Nasir said…
Hello, can we not include the soft butter in this formula?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Fina,

Yes indeed you can use soft butters in this - it's all a question of preference. Have fun!
How one feels after using emulsified scrub? Does this leaves your skin oily?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Vandita - When you add an emulsifier to a scrub it rinses off without feeling oily. I would describe it as feeling moisturised, but then I couldn't promise everyone would describe it the same. I hope this answers your question :)
Vikash Kumar M said…
can we use simulgreen 18-2 or Natragem EW as the Emulsifier?
Vikash Kumar M said…
can we use simulgreen 1802 or natragem ew as the Emulsifier?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Vikash — if you want to use Simulgreen you might have to adjust the formula a bit as I believe it has a recommended dosage of around 2-3%. These scrubs are pretty forgiving though so why nut try a couple of small batches and see how it works out. :)
Jill Lange said…
Hello and thank you.
I'm I'm the US, and was wondering what you use asa preservative? Do you find optiphen to be broad spectrum enough?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Jill - I use a mix of preservatives depending on the formula. If you want to use Optiphen in a formula of this type, you'll have to adjust the formula to accomodate as it calls for up to a max 1.5%. Try a few test batches with different amounts 0.5% - 1.5%) and see how it works out. :)
Veronica Ho said…
Hi Lise, I have a question not about this recipe but co-emulsifier. I'm new to this material. I see you said it acts to stablize and thicken the end product, may I ask if co-emulsifier can be added to make body cream?
Lise M Andersen said…
Hi Veronica - yes indeed. Co-emulsifier is used in numerous products - among these- cream :)
staciemag said…
Hi there! Thank you for the helpful article! I'm finally trying my hand at an emulsified sugar scrub, and I'm trying to decide on which emulsifier to use. I LOVE that the Olivem is a plant-based emulsifier, but oh my goodness is it ever expensive! Are there any other more "natural" or plant-based emulsifiers that aren't quite as expensive? Also, the brand I was looking at getting already contains something called Cetearyl Olivate. You say a co-emulsifier should be added, such as Cetearyl Alcohol. Are these the same things, by any chance? Or do I still need to add a co-emulsifier? Thank you for your help!
Lise M Andersen said…
HI Staciemag - It's a little hard for me to recommend anything specific not knowing where on the globe you are, but in my experience a ingredient is generally pricier when it's either rare or has a better quality.

To my understanding Olivem (did you mean Olivem 1000?) is a blend of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (not the same as cetearyl alcohol). You can get Olivem 1000 from Lotioncrafter at $5 for 2 oz.
Hope this helps!
Jyoti said…
Hello Lise! I absolutely love your blogs! Can we just omit butters and use only oils to make an emulsifier sugar scrub? Butters are hard to procure here.
Lise M Andersen said…
Hello Jyoti -You will have to try tweaking the ingredients to do a butter-free version. Try increasing the emulsifiers a by a total of 5% percent and the oil by 4% - but you will not have the same texture as you would with butters. If you can source babassu oil, it might also be a useful addition. Best of luck and please post back how it works for you!