Make-Up - Foundation Stick First Batch
This was a test. I've never made a foundation stick before, and thought it was about time I gave it a whirl.
I started this all backwards – by taking a look at my stock to see which ingredients I had at hand – and then formulating from there.
Before you get all impressed at my amazing formulating capabilities, let me just say, this batch was a fail.
But, we'll get to that in a minute.
ExperimentalSince this was a let's-make-something-from-what-we-have-in-stock kind of a product, I even allowed myself to use 'old' ingredients.
Ok – just the foundation pigment mix – it was from last year.
Still, not ideal by any measure.
IngredientsI'm not going to give you the formula because you wouldn't be happy with it. I'm just going to show you what I did, what I used - and then what happened.
The waxes are a mix of beeswax, candilla and carnauba. These were melted over low heat in a beaker - directly on the heat source (my preferred method, but using a bain marie is also an option).
Example: carnuaba wax used as a thin coating on consumables such as candies to keep a soft meltable center from melting in your hand (think m&m's).
The pre-mixed pigments were added to fractionated coconut oil and mixed with a bit of shea for 'buttery smoothness'.
This was added to the melted waxes, stirred thoroughly and poured into containers.
Here's a peek at the mixture directly after being poured. It stiffened very quickly and had to be remelted (over very low heat)
ResultsAlthough the color is a perfect match, I was not quite pleased with the resulting stick for 2 reasons.
1. There was not enough pigment in the mixture, so the stick functioned more as a foundation-tint-stick than a foundation stick, making it necessary to keep applying.
I might have been able to live with that bit, but the second reason was the kicker.
It didn't take much applying until this showed up.
... hard, lumpy bits is not what one looks for in a foundation stick, is it?
Also being able to control coverage could be quite an asset for many.
Also, this is a good starting point:
And the lumps, I think they could be formed after the waxes cooling too fast, but it's only my opinion :)
But the idea is really good.
@Anna-Vera - Thanks. I will keep working on this. It can't be that tough of a nut to crack :)
@Olivia - thank you! I totally agree that it is very easy to overbuy ingredients. I have built up my stock of make-up specific ingredients little by little for this very reason.
@Bob - You are my hero of the day - thank you so much for your input!
@María - When I mix foundation pigments, I am generous with the T-Dioxide (I have to be because my skin is so fair), so the pigment mixture already has coverage - I do need to add more pigment to the next batch. I think you are spot on with your observation on the reason for the lumps. Check the link in Bob's comment above - it is to a formula with specific temps for heating and cooling.
I think the coverage is a matter of personal preference, but maybe when mixing the powder in the stick base, the proportion of coverage and colouring may diminish.
I mean, in 5 g of powder is all pure pigments. In 5 g of this stick, there are the powder and the stick mixture.
Maybe the proportion of powder by stick mixture has to be bigger, also to have a more "powdery" texture after application
Currently I am working on pressing my foundations and other face products. I have been trying to find information on the formula of the powder itself. I understand we need dry binders and I have those at the recommended amounts, using a scale to measure all my ingredients now as well. I see that the ingredient lists of many green and clean pressed powders seems to be mostly mica, and a few recipes I found for pressed formulas are anywhere from 40-80% mica and/or a starch such as rice, tapioca, or as some use, talc. Yet some do not contain starches. Then there is the issue with wet binders. Finding just the right amount for your particular formula and just enough to make it creamy, yet not kick up a bunch of powder and make a mess. THEN there is the actual pressing technique! Oh so much to learn! Have you had any progress in pressing lately?
As far as my stick foundations, I would have to go look back at my recipe, but I needed to use quite a bit of mineral powder blend to get a good medium-full coverage stick. I also found that using pre-dispersed Titanium (in castor) was much smoother and resulted in a smoother product. There is a fine line with powders; add too much and you get a bit of a draggy, putty-like consistency, but any less and the coverage isn't great. I have the basic oxides and titanium pre dispersed in castor, including black, brown, red, yellow, but do not have chromium green or ultramarine blue, as I cannot find them available for home-use purchase. I don't want to use any other dyes apart from oxides either, as I want to keep things quite natural with my products. Also, holding heat while mixing in the minerals is important, as well as melting all oils, butters, and waxes thoroughly before adding powders. Making stick concealers and foundations proved to be a bit tricky, as the smallest adjustments of oils and what minerals you use make a big difference. I would love to hear more about this one as well!
My latest adaption from that is : phase A
10% cocoa butter
10% coconut oil
10% c12-15 alkyl benzonate
2-8% titanium dioxide
Obviously I have to adjust the percentages depending on how much dry ingredients I'm adding
I prefer to ad 2-4% silicones so I take out of oil phase then ad them
Thanks for sharing!!!!