It All Started...
Last year, I developed a special order vitamin-C based skin lightening product for 2 ladies. The process was documented on this blog as a case study (check under Topics for Case Studies).
Tricky, Demanding and Difficult
Vitamin C is not only super tricky to work with, but also comes with all kinds of usage do's and don'ts. In higher doses it must only be used for a limited time. This serum was formulated with a lower dose of vitamin C so it could be used every day and still refresh and brighten the skin.
Everything Ready? Ok, Go!
Vitamin C starts to loose its power as soon as it is exposed to air. I'm sure you've heard the 'eat the orange as soon as you've peeled it to get the maximum vitamin C'. That's actually true.
For skin care products, vitamin C is ideally added under airless conditions in a lab. My lab – which is full of all kinds of super-advanced equipment – works like this: add vitamin C as the final ingredient and package immediately in airless containers while holding breath (told you it was advanced).
To speed the final process, everything is lined up and readied just before adding the final ingredient. Here are the final steps of making this product.
The C-vitamin was added, and in less than the wink of an eye, this happened.
Adding vitamin C to a product containing cranberry powder will pretty much instantly take the joy out of the color.
Despite this less-than-happy hue, I bottled and tested the serum. The texture was lovely and quite pleasant to use, but the memory of fresh pink lingered...
After 2 weeks of still not being able to get past the color change, I dumped the remainder.
Next batch will be sans cranberry powder.