Saturday, January 21, 2012

Pressing Eye Shadow With Powder-Pressing Power Tools

Now that you've been introduced to the the joys of visiting the hardware store for powder-pressing power tools, let's see how the first batch of pressed eyeshadow turned out using them.

Four Hands are Better than Two 
For the initial test run of this equipment, I was accompanied by a lovely family member. It normally takes me about 2 hours to produce 4 pans of color. Pictured above is the result of 2 hours of work: 3 times as much product! (plus an extra, loose-powder shimmer-blush pot)

Here are a few snaps of our powder-pressing party.

Birdseye view of some of the pigments and equipment. It's helpful to have several small bowls at the ready so it is possible to sift from one to the next while mixing colors. Sifting is preferrable if you use glimmery or shimmery pigments and want to ensure their continued shimmery quality. With matt colors, everything can be whizzed together in a coffee grinder.
Tip: Buy a dedicated coffee grinder for mixing powders. Ground coffee remnants and eyeshadow do not mix well.

The colors have been mixed with base powder and the first layer is being transferred to the first pan.
The pan is built up gradually – a thin layer at a time. A quick press was made with the pressing tool for each layer. Knowing I had my super duper vice at the ready, I didn't use near the pressure (or time) I normally do during this phase.
Tip: A piece of 'wax' (baking) paper between the pan and pressing tool helps distribute the powder evenly.

The final layer is added.
Here's the Wolfcraft vice (or Wolfy – as it has affectionately been named), ready for the final pressing. Resting on the base is the pan and pressing tool. The little 'slice of yellow' sandwiched between the pressing tool and wax paper is a silicone pressing pad.

Because this was the first time using the vice, we experimented with several different pressing methods: including silicone pad, without silicone pad, 2 minute press period, 5 minute press period, 10 second press period, one quick hard press, etc etc.


A closeup of Wolfy, effortlessly pressing eyeshadow (sans silicone pad) as I pause for a sip of coffee with not a sore thumb, finger, or wrist in sight.

The first pan is ready. This photo doesn't do the silvery color justice. You'll just have to trust me when I say it looked awesome. Check out how deep the indentation is in the piece of wax paper. I've never had this much pressing power before. The crucial drop test revealed that all was well and truly pressed to perfection. The first pan took a total of 5 minutes to build and press. Amazed much?!

Press Party
Before we knew it, we had this collection of colors ready to be spot-glued into the awaiting containers. Zoweee that was fun – and fast!!

Maybe Too Fast
The next day, I discovered some of the shadows started to loosen and even spilled into the other pans during use. They needed re-pressing and ended up looking a little 'mixed', but were still functional.

I know what you're thinking: 'Lise is a diligent note-taker. She could just check her notes on the different pressing methods that she had taken the day before. In a second she's going to tell us exactly which pressing methods worked and which ones didn't.'

And you would be right (normally). Except, well, don't ask me if I took notes, OK?

OK, I didn't take notes.

All Play and No Work
Looking back, I realize my enthusiasm about suddenly having Wolfy-power is totally at fault. I lost all perspective, forgetting several drop tests and even forgetting to check the (crucial) amount of added binding agent to the powders. I spent far too much time sipping coffee, chatting, and giggling up a storm with my lovely family member. We were just too busy having a blast mixing colors and shooting out pressed eyeshadows right and left.

Obviously, I need to spend some concentrated (non-giggling) time getting to know Wolfy's capabilities (while taking notes). However, I fully expect it will be seriously enjoyable. I promise to update when Wolfy and I have done a few more rounds.

Visit this post for more info on the pressing tools.

What tools do you use for pressing eyeshadow? Can yours pass the drop test?

8 comments:

Rikke said...

Hej Lise

Jeg har slet ikke mod på at kaste mig ud i at producere øjensgygger, så jeg har desværre ikke noget at byde ind med. Det ser meget svært og stædighedskrævende ud. Der må da være nogen derude, der har nogle erfaringer, du kan "arve"...

Kh Rikke

Lise M Andersen said...

Hej Rikke,
Ja, man skal starte i det små - ellers virker det helt uoverkommeligt. Jeg har efterhånden tilegnet mig noget, men jeg ikke laver nær så meget makeup som jeg laver hud og hårpleje produkter, så jeg føler mig noget mindre 'sikker' i netop makeup fremstilling. Jeg ved der findes damer derude der producere vildt meget øjenskygge, mineralsk pudder osv som kan sikkert en hel masse mere end mig. Jeg gad godt at møde et par af dem så jeg kunne lære lidt fif og tricks...
Tak for dit input - det er da dejligt at du læser med og kommentere! ELSKER kommentarer!

Anonymous said...

hei! jeg kunne tenke meg å lave en mineral blush med mica fra urtegaarden, men ønsker å gjøre det enklest mulig, kan man lave det uten olje kun mika og noen av de andre tørre ingrediensene? har du noen tips på enkel oppskrift? altså det behøves ikke å presse det, men skal være en løs pudder blush :)

kh
Kristine

Lise M Andersen said...

Hej Kirstine
Du kan sagtens lave en mineralsk blush med ingredienser fra Urtegaarden. De har ligefrem også en opskrift på løs pudder rouge her http://www.urtegaarden.dk/opskrifter/oejenskygge--rouge.aspx

Du kan bare undlade at tilsætte olieblandingen der er i opskriften. Du skal have dog have grundpudder med i blandingen hvis din blush skal blive siddende. Held og lykke med det! :)

Lise M Andersen said...

Sorry, fik lige stavet dit navn forkert: Kristine! :)

Anonymous said...

:) tusen takk :-) det er talkum i grunnoppskriften ser jeg, -holder det kun med de tørre ingredienser som er i oppskriften: talkum, magnesiumstearat og kaolin eller vil du anbefale et til? :)
mange takk :)

Lise M Andersen said...

Jeps, det holder med de ingredienser.
Der er nogle der foretrækker andre ting i deres grundpudder: fx kartoffelmel, majsstivelse o.l.

En lille tip: hvis du vil have at farven er lidt dækkende, så tilsæt en smule titandioxid (hvid). Ellers bliver farven meget gennemsigtig.

Jeg vil anbefale at du ringer til Urtegaarden og spørger dem omkring opskriften og hvad man kunne evt erstatte med hvis du vil bruge andre ingredienser til grundpudderet. De er rigtig god til at forklare og give gode råd.

Anonymous said...

flot tusen takk :) spennende :)