Saturday, May 14, 2011

Make-up: Making Eyebrow Pencils

I used to make only a couple of makeup pencils at a time – all from scratch, but over the past couple of years I have taken to pre-making a pencil base in a 'larger quantity' (enough for about 15 slim or 5 fat pencils) and storing the mixture in my ingredients fridge. When I need to do a pencil or 2, I grab the base and go from there. Here is how I made a couple of eyebrow pencils the other day.

This batch will be a dark charcoal color. The colors involved are white titanium dioxide and silk black. The colors are measured up and sifted. I have 2 bowls ready so I can sift from one bowl to the next. The container with the finished pencil base is visible in the upper left hand corner.

The colors are sifted together several times. Titanium dioxide has a 'larger grain size' than the silk black and will show up as tiny specks in the product even after being thoroughly sifted together. Here the color has only been sifted twice. I usually do about 10-12 passes through the sift. I could have used a small powder grinder, but with such a small amount of color, it's faster and more practical to sift the colors together.

When the color is ready, the pencil base is measured out and put into a small beaker for melting. In the middle of the picture is the disposable syringe I will be using to fill the pencils.

The base is heated very slowly until it is liquid. This picture is actually from a previous session so, what you are seeing in this beaker is not the finished base, but the creation of the base mixture.

When the base is liquid, color is added and everything is stirred thoroughly. (This pic is also from a previous session where the color I mixed was a tad lighter)

The color is transferred to a disposable syringe and the pencils are filled. The mixture stiffens quickly so speed and dexterity are important. It's a good idea to have a disposable layer on your work surface. I usually make a mess, so having only a layer of paper towels to discard makes cleanup easy.

After the pencils are completely set, they can be sharpened and are ready to go. I do have tops for these pencils, but they aren't in the picture. These pencil casings are from DIY cosmetics - easy to fill and easy to sharpen, and some of the best I've worked with. 


Anna-Vera said...

Would these pencils be usable as eye liner? Or do you have to make a different mixture? And if so, how different?

Lise M Andersen said...

the base mix is a bit different for eyeliner, but the process is the same.

Anonymous said...

Hi. What is the base made of for eyebrow pencil?

Lise M Andersen said...

Hi Anon - I have made several different bases through the years and would have to check my notes for details, but from memory I can tell you it is a combo of beeswax, cocoa butter, and oil.

Anonymous said...

Thank you very much! Barb.

Agnes said...

Hi Lise,

You mentioned that you use black silk in this recipe. I have not heard that there is black silk available, or is there? I've been using either oxides or mica for coloring, but silk sounds terrific. If black silk is what you use, could you suggest some sites where it would be possible to get some. Thank you.

Lise M Andersen said...

HI Agnes, I can see how this can be confusing - it is a mica color called silk black or black silk I am using. It is not as deep black as others. :)

Agnes said...

Thank you for clarification, Lise! ..:-)