How To Make a Lip and Cheek Tint
Here's one of the best ways I know to fight winter doldrums – making make-up! A splash of bright color like this lip and cheek tint stick offers is just the thing for both on-the-go color and moisture injection.
Are you with me?
Good.
Let's get busy!
French Roots
To be perfectly honest, this started off as an Aroma Zone recipe – but that was yonks ago. I have made and tweaked it a few times by now, so it's probably not too terribly close to the original any more. (I'm a hopeless tweaker, what can I say?)Even though there are quite a few ingredients in this recipe (my incessant tweaking), this particular combination has provided me with the perfect combo of moisturizing and color-staying power.
Equipment List
- Beaker (or other heatproof glass that you can pour from)
- Stirring rod
- Scale that can measure to a tenth of a gram
- Container(s) for your product
Ingredients List
This amount will make 20 ml of product and fill a 17ml chunky-sized lip balm case and a 5ml container (pictured above)- 1-4 grams Pigment - depending on desired strength of color (use micas for sheerer color and oxides for deeper color - less pigment for a tint, more for a lipstick)
- 3,6 grams Fractionated Coconut Oil (Caprylic Capric Triglycerides)
- 1,6 grams Beeswax
- 1,2 grams Carnauba Wax
- 6 grams Jojoba (can be replaced with fractionated coconut oil)
- 2,8 grams Coco Silicone (can be replaced with jojoba or fractionated coconut oil)
- 2,4 grams Shea Butter
- 1 drop Vitamin e
Method
Weigh out all of your ingredients so they are ready to add - you will need everything at the ready while you are working. Also, be sure your containers are open and right at hand as well.Work Tips
- Cut the shea into small bits to aid and speed the melting process
- Have paper towel at hand to wipe up any spills
- Cover your work surface with wax paper for easy clean-up
Step 1
Mix the pigments with 3,6 grams of fractionated coconut oil.If you are using the max amount of pigment, the mixture will look like a 'pigment ball' when the oil is fully incorporated.
Step 2
Add the 2 waxes and transfer your container to your heat source. Melt SLOWLY over VERY LOW heat while gently stirring.Melting methods: you can either place a heatproof beaker directly on the heat source or heat in a container over a water bath. Either way, the mixture must be monitored constantly.
As soon as the waxes have melted, add the jojoba and coco silicone while continuing to stir.
Step 3
Remove from heat and add shea butter - stir until fully dissolved.Step 4
Quickly transfer the mixture to your containers.It stiffens quite quickly, so you will need to work uninterrupted (read: have your containers ready to be filled).
If the mixture stiffens in the beaker, reheat it very gently - stirring until it can again be poured.
If you check the picture below (and at the top), you can see on the surface that I had to reheat to get the final bit out of the beaker.
Below: a quick swatch of the color on my arm – this was just the rosy lip and cheek shade I was looking for!
Comments
I would like to say here that when working with pigments and fats, I mix continuously after adding pigment and let the mixture cool just enough, just before any small amount of solidification occurs so that I can still pour, but not too warm either. Oxides aren't soluble and will sink so I then take the tube or compact or whatever it is (especially tubes) to the freezer immediately after pouring. I don't think this is as critical with oxides as it is with micas in fats. Those will sink rather quickly so I follow these tips particularly with micas but still do the same with pigments.
Thank you so much for your blog and sharing your extensive knowledge! I am having so much fun here!
I have Polawax NF Emulsifying Wax, Beeswax Pastilles - Yellow Cosmetic or Beeswax Pastilles - White Cosmetic. Which one would be your choice? Thanks!